In the Beginning
Tour Arctic began with an orientation and a photo session at UBC. From there the riders immediately set out to catch a ferry to Vancouver island to start riding North.
Welcome to the Island!
Once we landed on Vancouver Island we began our slow journey northward. The first few days we stayed in rather well serviced campgrounds on the exterior of the island usually staying directly on shore. I swam in the Pacific ocean for the first time on this tour! I don't know how I managed to avoid the opportunity during all of Tour Pacific, but it was good to get out in the water.
Once we reached the midpoint of the island (just after Campbell River) civilization stopped. There was then nothing. We spent a few nights in very low service areas and grocery shopping was rare or non-existent. Eventually we made our way to Port Hardy on the north shore of the island where a series of ferries awaited to take us all the way to Skagway, Alaska where we would cross over to the Yukon.
Singing songs in Sayward!
Once we landed on Vancouver Island we began our slow journey northward. The first few days we stayed in rather well serviced campgrounds on the exterior of the island usually staying directly on shore. I swam in the Pacific ocean for the first time on this tour! I don't know how I managed to avoid the opportunity during all of Tour Pacific, but it was good to get out in the water.
Once we reached the midpoint of the island (just after Campbell River) civilization stopped. There was then nothing. We spent a few nights in very low service areas and grocery shopping was rare or non-existent. Eventually we made our way to Port Hardy on the north shore of the island where a series of ferries awaited to take us all the way to Skagway, Alaska where we would cross over to the Yukon.
Are ye a land lubber?
From here we spent about three total days on ferries heading northward! Before boarding our first ferry though, an exciting announcement was made: two of the riders were planning on getting married in Dawson City! This was unknown to all and quite a shock, although the couple had been dating for quite some time. Everyone was quite excited and there was a lot of celebrating that night.
The first ferry ride was rather uneventful, but due to lack of sleep the night before (the ferry check in was 5am) I spent the entire 10 hour ride sleeping on a bench outside of the cafeteria. I only woke up for meals, and I managed to attend breakfast, lunch AND dinner without fail! I would call a day of entirely sleeping and eating an excellent day. This day was also my partner's birthday and thus cake and celebration were a part of dinner. We then departed the first ferry and had a rest day in northern BC.
After our rest day we packed up camp and got on another ferry - this one for a period of two entire days - which would land us in Alaska. On this ferry I spent much of my time sunning myself (and sunburning myself) on the deck in a lawn chair. I saw a few whales in the distance, and some sort of pod of dolphins or porpoises or something rather close to the boat! It was very interesting (and rather touristy!) to see these things for the first time.
On the deck I met a banjo player and we played a few old timey folk tunes together. After a few minutes a couple of guitar players came out and started playing along with us, and I couldn't believe how co-ordinated everyone was! After a few minutes I figured out that they were all part of a band and I was in fact intruding on a practice session, but they invited me to play a long anyway. The band was Ray Troll, Russel Wodehouse and the Ratfish Wranglers(http://www.trollart.com). They were heading to a music festival and were travelling the same ferry I was! Turns out they're quite a well known bunch of fellas in their homeland. We had a good jam and I was invited to play an impromptu concert with them in the ships bar later that night. We sang songs about fish, paleontology and Alaskan life. I loved the experience and got myself a signed cd! If ever the opportunity comes along I'd do it again in a heartbeat. Here's a link to my favourite song by them (warning: mature subject matter): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEGrcfZ-5Y0
How Alaskans enjoy a cruise
View from the boat
The Matanuska: my home for two days
A quaint Alaskan shoreline
A Ratfish Wrangler napping on the deck
Happy as a pig in mud to be performing again!
LAND HO!! Arriving in Alaska!
From here we spent about three total days on ferries heading northward! Before boarding our first ferry though, an exciting announcement was made: two of the riders were planning on getting married in Dawson City! This was unknown to all and quite a shock, although the couple had been dating for quite some time. Everyone was quite excited and there was a lot of celebrating that night.
The first ferry ride was rather uneventful, but due to lack of sleep the night before (the ferry check in was 5am) I spent the entire 10 hour ride sleeping on a bench outside of the cafeteria. I only woke up for meals, and I managed to attend breakfast, lunch AND dinner without fail! I would call a day of entirely sleeping and eating an excellent day. This day was also my partner's birthday and thus cake and celebration were a part of dinner. We then departed the first ferry and had a rest day in northern BC.
After our rest day we packed up camp and got on another ferry - this one for a period of two entire days - which would land us in Alaska. On this ferry I spent much of my time sunning myself (and sunburning myself) on the deck in a lawn chair. I saw a few whales in the distance, and some sort of pod of dolphins or porpoises or something rather close to the boat! It was very interesting (and rather touristy!) to see these things for the first time.
On the deck I met a banjo player and we played a few old timey folk tunes together. After a few minutes a couple of guitar players came out and started playing along with us, and I couldn't believe how co-ordinated everyone was! After a few minutes I figured out that they were all part of a band and I was in fact intruding on a practice session, but they invited me to play a long anyway. The band was Ray Troll, Russel Wodehouse and the Ratfish Wranglers(http://www.trollart.com). They were heading to a music festival and were travelling the same ferry I was! Turns out they're quite a well known bunch of fellas in their homeland. We had a good jam and I was invited to play an impromptu concert with them in the ships bar later that night. We sang songs about fish, paleontology and Alaskan life. I loved the experience and got myself a signed cd! If ever the opportunity comes along I'd do it again in a heartbeat. Here's a link to my favourite song by them (warning: mature subject matter): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEGrcfZ-5Y0
After the Gold Rush
Later in the day after arriving in Alaska we set up camp for the first time in the Yukon Territory. First we had to pass through customs though, and with 20 cyclists this can be a long process. We had to wait at customs for all the cyclists to arrive before proceeding. In that time we saw a black bear that was just nonchalantly exploring the area! Nobody seemed concerned and I guess it must be a rather mundane affair in the Yukon territory.
Two shocking things about the Yukon:
A few days in we sadly had to say goodbye to "the most interesting man in the world". This man has ridden all of Africa on a bike, speaks 4 languages, lives in the south of France, spent his youth in the Merchant marine and is a connoisseur of fine wines. Regardless, due to a family emergency he needed to return home and his equally charming wife also departed with him. It was very sad to say goodbye to these people and it was difficult for them as well.
Eventually we arrived in Dawson where things made a turn for the better. In Dawson we were scheduled to have a rest day, so the day before the rest day we all hit the town! We all went to Diamond tooth Gerty's where I lost $24 at a blackjack table, had a few drinks, and saw a great cabaret show. The night ran long and eventually I found myself going for a dip in the Yukon river and going to bed wet with river water. What a good night!
The following day was the wedding! The best man (who is also a musician) and I had practised some music for the ceremony and along with some help from our cyclist choir we were ready to help make their day extra special. The event began with the bride and groom rolling into camp with their special tuxedo and wedding dress print jerseys. The rounded us all up and took us down to the Yukon river for a very quiet ceremony. As the bride rolled down the "aisle" a choral and guitar arrangement of Pachelbel's canon in D Major accompanied her arrival. Vows were exchanged while still mounted in bicycles. The official papers were signed over the back of one of the very helpful and enthusiastic riders. After the ceremony the couple shared their first dance to a cover of Neil Young's Harvest Moon as played by the best man and I. The ceremony was amazing and I'm not ashamed that I teared up a little! Afterwards a celebratory dinner was held at a local restaurant. At that same meal my partner and I had to exchange our goodbyes with the riders as we were leaving them in the hands of another tour group to head out East and start tour Atlantic. There was some crying on behalf of the riders (and maybe a little from myself!).
The "world's smallest desert" outside Carcross
Kees loves his moose
A sad goodbye to Kees and Jenny
My night at Diamond Tooth Gerty's
They came to round us up!
Cue the band!
Liz makes an excellent table.
Just married.
Tour Arctic was an amazing group. I miss you all.
Kate and I are now on the road heading towards Halifax. I hope I can get a chance to update when I get there to tell of all our on-the-road shenanigans.
Later in the day after arriving in Alaska we set up camp for the first time in the Yukon Territory. First we had to pass through customs though, and with 20 cyclists this can be a long process. We had to wait at customs for all the cyclists to arrive before proceeding. In that time we saw a black bear that was just nonchalantly exploring the area! Nobody seemed concerned and I guess it must be a rather mundane affair in the Yukon territory.
Two shocking things about the Yukon:
- It is DESOLATE. We were lucky to pass through places that had a gas station, potable water, a police officer or a convenience store. Grocery shopping was non-existent and after we left Whitehorse the biggest community we saw wasn't until Dawson "city" which was still less that 1000 people. At one point we pulled into an RCMP detachment and the officer was so excited to see people he greeted us outside!
- There are bees EVERYEWHERE. I have no idea why there are so many bees, but it was absolutely infuriating.
A few days in we sadly had to say goodbye to "the most interesting man in the world". This man has ridden all of Africa on a bike, speaks 4 languages, lives in the south of France, spent his youth in the Merchant marine and is a connoisseur of fine wines. Regardless, due to a family emergency he needed to return home and his equally charming wife also departed with him. It was very sad to say goodbye to these people and it was difficult for them as well.
Eventually we arrived in Dawson where things made a turn for the better. In Dawson we were scheduled to have a rest day, so the day before the rest day we all hit the town! We all went to Diamond tooth Gerty's where I lost $24 at a blackjack table, had a few drinks, and saw a great cabaret show. The night ran long and eventually I found myself going for a dip in the Yukon river and going to bed wet with river water. What a good night!
The following day was the wedding! The best man (who is also a musician) and I had practised some music for the ceremony and along with some help from our cyclist choir we were ready to help make their day extra special. The event began with the bride and groom rolling into camp with their special tuxedo and wedding dress print jerseys. The rounded us all up and took us down to the Yukon river for a very quiet ceremony. As the bride rolled down the "aisle" a choral and guitar arrangement of Pachelbel's canon in D Major accompanied her arrival. Vows were exchanged while still mounted in bicycles. The official papers were signed over the back of one of the very helpful and enthusiastic riders. After the ceremony the couple shared their first dance to a cover of Neil Young's Harvest Moon as played by the best man and I. The ceremony was amazing and I'm not ashamed that I teared up a little! Afterwards a celebratory dinner was held at a local restaurant. At that same meal my partner and I had to exchange our goodbyes with the riders as we were leaving them in the hands of another tour group to head out East and start tour Atlantic. There was some crying on behalf of the riders (and maybe a little from myself!).

Tour Arctic was an amazing group. I miss you all.
Kate and I are now on the road heading towards Halifax. I hope I can get a chance to update when I get there to tell of all our on-the-road shenanigans.
Wow....what an inspiration to all of us!
ReplyDeleteAwesome pics and comments.